On Kangaroo Island and elsewhere, beware the lure of the luxury ecotourist

March 12, 2019

Admiral's Arch in Flinders Chase National Park on Kangaroo Island. Image by Michael Baragwanath via Pixabay
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Cater­ing to lux­ury eco­tour­ism is at odds with the wild and undeveloped nature of nation­al parks that loc­als want, accord­ing to Freya Hig­gins-Des­bio­lles of the Uni­ver­sity of South Australia.

Kangaroo Island, less than 130 kilo­metres from Adelaide, is one of Australia’s eco­lo­gic­al jew­els. Tour­ism Aus­tralia describes it as a “pristine wil­der­ness”, with cliffs, beaches, wet­lands and dense bush­land offer­ing pro­tec­tion to nat­ive anim­als such as pen­guins, sea lions, pel­ic­ans, koalas and, of course, kangaroos. 

It is a place “too good to spoil”.

Many who agree fear that new devel­op­ments will do exactly that. With the state government’s approv­al, a tour­ism com­pany wants to build two lux­ury tour­ist vil­lages at unspoilt loc­a­tions on the island’s west coast, with­in the pro­tec­ted area of the Flinders Chase Nation­al Park, the state’s second-old­est nation­al park. 

Park volun­teers have gone on strike in oppos­i­tion. Hun­dreds have ral­lied before South Australia’s par­lia­ment in sup­port of “pub­lic parks, not private play­grounds”.

The issue is not unique to Kangaroo Island. Around Aus­tralia, and the world, nation­al parks are under threat from the curi­ous para­dox of lux­ury tour­ism, which demands devel­op­ment in pro­tec­ted wil­der­ness areas to cater for those who want to enjoy the nat­ur­al envir­on­ment without any inter­rup­tion of their lifestyle. 

Kangaroo Island, South Australia.  Wikimedia (CC BY-SA)
Kangaroo Island, South Aus­tralia. Source: Wiki­me­dia (CC BY-SA)

Death by a thousand cuts

My research has involved study­ing past devel­op­ment con­tro­ver­sies on Kangaroo Island. One is South­ern Ocean Lodge, a six-star eco­lodge near Flinders Chase developed in the mid-2000s. Anoth­er is the Kangaroo Island Surf Music Fest­iv­al, held in 2011 at Vivonne Bay, on the island’s south coast.

Both cases illu­min­ate the pro­cess by which parks author­it­ies are pres­sured to sup­port com­mer­cial tour­ism enter­prises in their pro­tec­ted areas.

Park author­it­ies nev­er have enough fund­ing to pay for con­ser­va­tion. Tour­ism author­it­ies motiv­ated by growth indic­at­ors seek to attract high-yield tour­ists. Lux­ury eco­tour­ism is a luc­rat­ive niche. As budgets for the envir­on­ment are cut, the fin­an­cial incent­ives dangled by tour­ism author­it­ies become irresistible. 

It is presen­ted as a win-win col­lab­or­a­tion. Any single ven­ture can be jus­ti­fied on the grounds that the imme­di­ate bene­fits out­weigh the costs. But each devel­op­ment becomes a pre­ced­ent to allow future incur­sions, res­ult­ing in “death by a thou­sand cuts”.

Elsewhere in Australia

South Aus­trali­an author­it­ies are hardly alone in accept­ing this Faus­ti­an bargain.

In Tas­mania, the fed­er­al and state gov­ern­ments are back­ing plans for a tour­ism devel­op­ment on an island in the middle of Lake Mal­bena in the cent­ral high­lands. The lake is with­in the Walls of Jer­u­s­alem Nation­al Park, part of the Tas­mani­an Wil­der­ness World Her­it­age Area. 

The plan reportedly involves build­ing three lux­ury huts and a helipad so six people at a time can fly in for three-night get­aways at a cost of about A$4,500 each.

In Queens­land, the state gov­ern­ment has plans to offer 60-year leases to com­mer­cial tour­ism oper­at­ors in three nation­al parks (the Whit­sunday Islands Nation­al Park, the Great Sandy Nation­al Park and the Great Bar­ri­er Reef Mar­ine Park). The oper­at­ors will be allowed to build “eco-lodges” and offer “com­mer­cial experiences”. 

An insight into what those exper­i­ences might involve is provided by The Week­end Aus­trali­an Magazine, (whose read­ers have an aver­age income of A$116,495).

The art­icle “Walk this way: adven­tures in the great out­doors” (pub­lished 2 – 3 March 2019) talks of “fully sup­por­ted walk­ing exper­i­ences” with “lux­ury accom­mod­a­tions” and “premi­um food and wines” cost­ing thou­sands of dol­lars, and in some cases using heli­copters to access remote park sites. 

Torquay Pier in the Great Sandy Marine Park, Fraser Coast, Queensland, Australia. Image by Maggie Macleod Francic (CC BY-SA 4.0) via Wikimedia. https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Great_Sandy_Marine_Park_16.jpg
Torquay Pier in the Great Sandy Mar­ine Park, Fraser Coast, Queens­land, Aus­tralia. Image by Mag­gie Macleod Francic (CC BY-SA 4.0) via Wiki­me­dia.

Dual interests

One com­pany keen to snare the Queens­land leases is the developer of the Kangaroo Island lux­ury tour­ism plan, Aus­trali­an Walk­ing Com­pany. A dir­ect­or and sig­ni­fic­ant share­hold­er in the com­pany is Brett God­frey, the former chief exec­ut­ive of Vir­gin Aus­tralia who is now chair­man of Tour­ism Queensland.

God­frey has addressed his poten­tial con­flict of interest by tak­ing advice from the office of the Queens­land Integ­rity Com­mis­sion­er.

Non­ethe­less, his dual interests give an insight into the prob­lem­at­ic nature of gov­ern­ments and tour­ism bur­eau­cra­cies sup­port­ing lux­ury eco­tour­ism devel­op­ments in con­ser­va­tion areas; par­tic­u­larly when (as former Queens­land min­is­ter for nation­al parks Steve Dick­son said in 2013), they are “look­ing to make money”.

Private versus public interest

The busi­ness strategy of unlock­ing nation­al parks for lux­ury eco-tour­ism devel­op­ment risks under­min­ing the very point of cre­at­ing such parks in the first place. It pits the private interests of the wealthy against the pub­lic interest in envir­on­ment­al and loc­al benefits. 

It places no value on the con­ser­va­tion work of “friends of parks” groups, which sup­port these parks primar­ily as places for con­ser­va­tion and secondly as pub­licly fun­ded places to enjoy, learn about and con­nect to nature.

Cater­ing to the lux­ury eco-tour­ist is at odds with the “wild” and undeveloped nature that con­ser­va­tion­ists and loc­al park lov­ers want. You can’t get away from it all and take it all with you.

Advoc­ates can argue that lux­ury eco-tour­ism is more sus­tain­able because it offers high eco­nom­ic yield with few­er num­bers. But take that argu­ment to its logic­al extreme and we’ll end up with situ­ations like that in Indonesia.

Komodo dragon at Komodo National Park, Indonesia. By Adhi Rachdian (CC BY 2.0) via Wikimedia. https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=12371346
Who? Me? Komodo dragon at Komodo Nation­al Park, Indone­sia. By Adhi Rach­di­an (CC BY 2.0) via Wiki­me­dia. “GT” cropped and enhanced it.

Komodo lessons

The gov­ernor of the province that includes Komodo Nation­al Park, the island home of komodo dragons, wants to increase the park’s entrance fee by 5,000%, from about US$10 to US$500. It would cer­tainly reduce tour­ist num­bers, but also effect­ively make the park off-lim­its to most Indonesians. 

The gov­ernor, Vic­tor Laidkod­at, is appar­ently fine with that. “This is a rare place, only for people with money,” he has reportedly said. “Those who don’t have enough money shouldn’t come because this place is for extraordin­ary people.”

This is cer­tainly not what we want for our own nation­al parks, turn­ing them into private play­grounds for the priv­ileged few.

This year is the cen­ten­ary of Kangaroo Island’s Flinders Chase Nation­al Park. It’s a good time to look back and appre­ci­ate the vis­ion that led to its estab­lish­ment in 1919, and to look crit­ic­ally at what our vis­ion is for the next 100 years. 

This art­icle by Freya Hig­gins-Des­bio­lles, Seni­or Lec­turer in Tour­ism Man­age­ment, Uni­ver­sity of South Aus­tralia, was ori­gin­ally pub­lished on The Con­ver­sa­tion, March 11, 2019. It has been repub­lished on the “GT” Blog under a Cre­at­ive Com­mons license. (The “GT” Blog used dif­fer­ent images and changed a sub­head­ing that in the ori­gin­al was the name of a com­pany.) Read the ori­gin­al art­icle.

Fea­tured image: Admir­al’s Arch in Flinders Chase Nation­al Park on Kangaroo Island, South Aus­tralia. Image by Michael Barag­wanath via Pixabay.

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