Would Gorkhaland tourism be better for the Gorkhas?

June 27, 2017

Would Gorkhaland tourism benefit from independence? Pro-Gorkhaland independence posters, Darjeeling, West Bengal, India. By Adam Jones via Flickr (CC BY-SA 2.0)

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Tour­ism in the Dar­jeel­ing Hills and Dooars has the poten­tial to thrive under a “Gorkha­land” state admin­is­tra­tion, accord­ing to an art­icle by Jaideep Mazum­dar for Swa­ra­jya. These Indi­an ter­rit­or­ies, which are cur­rently under West Bengal state admin­is­tra­tion, are “richly endowed” with nat­ur­al beauty and bio­lo­gic­al diversity. With some con­trol over tour­ism devel­op­ment plan­ning and mar­ket pos­i­tion­ing the Gorkha people might do much bet­ter out of “Gorkha­land tourism”.

The Gorkhas — Nepali-speak­ing Indi­an cit­izens — are demand­ing that the Dar­jeel­ing Hills and the Dooars (D&D) of West Bengal state split away to form a sep­ar­ate state called Gorkha­land. How­ever, accord­ing to Mazum­dar, the lin­guist­ic­ally and cul­tur­ally dis­tinct Bengal­is who share West Bengal state with the Gorkhas reck­on Gorkha­land would be “wholly depend­ent on the uni­on gov­ern­ment for all its needs”.

“But this nar­rat­ive, being espoused by Bengal­is who want Bengal to retain its tenu­ous and uneth­ic­al hold over the Dar­jeel­ing Hills and Dooars, is totally false,” writes Mazum­dar. “Fact is, the pro­posed Gorkha­land state com­pris­ing the Dar­jeel­ing Hills and large parts of the Dooars […] can be a rev­en­ue-sur­plus state unlike the debt-laden West Bengal. The pro­posed state has tre­mend­ous poten­tial in emer­ging as a high earner among all the states of the country.”

The proposed Gorkhaland state of India: The capital Darjeeling in the Darjeeling hills (green territory) in the west; the Dooars (10 districts on this map) strung out along the floodplain to the east.

The pro­posed Gorkha­land state of India: The cap­it­al would be Dar­jeel­ing in the Dar­jeel­ing Hills (green ter­rit­ory) to the west; the Dooars (10 dis­tricts on this map) strung out along the flood­plains to the east open mul­tiple doors to Bhutan. ‘Dooars’ means ‘doors’ in the Assamese, Bengali, Maith­ili, Bho­jpuri, Magahi and Telugu lan­guages (Wiki­pe­dia).

Mazum­dar argues that Gorkha­land would have four ‘Ts’ — tea, tour­ism, and tim­ber (the tra­di­tion­al three ‘Ts’) plus trade — as well hydro­elec­tric energy to power it all along. D&D,“being one of the prime 25 biod­iversity hot­spots in the world and with its wealth of flora and fauna”, has the poten­tial to earn plenty from eco­tour­ism. And since the pro­posed Gorkha­land state would have bor­ders with China (through Sikkim), Bangladesh, Bhutan and Nepal, cross-bor­der trade could be huge. Fur­ther­more, the region has untapped poten­tial to gen­er­ate hydro­elec­tric energy.

Apart from the cul­tur­al and lin­guist­ic dif­fer­ences between Gorkhas and Bengal­is, Mazum­dar reck­ons the demand for a sep­ar­ate state has been fuelled by the “crim­in­al neg­lect of D&D” by suc­cess­ive Bengali gov­ern­ments: “Not only is phys­ic­al infra­struc­ture in a mess in the region, little has been inves­ted in health­care, edu­ca­tion, san­it­a­tion, live­li­hood pro­jects, devel­op­ing tour­ism, agri­cul­ture, flo­ri­cul­ture and hor­ti­cul­ture.” Even the “toy train”, the Dar­jeel­ing Him­alay­an Rail­way, which was UNESCO World Her­it­age-lis­ted in 1999 “wal­lows in utter neg­lect”, he reckons.

D&D: West Bengal or Gorkhaland tourism?

D&D gets around 500,000 domest­ic tour­ists and 50,000 for­eign tour­ists every year, accord­ing to Mazum­dar. “Unfor­tu­nately, due to poor infra­struc­ture, most of these are low-budget tour­ists who do not con­trib­ute much to the loc­al eco­nomy. Almost all the budget hotels in the region are oper­ated on lease by Bengal­is from the rest of the state and the loc­als are only employed as lowly-paid waiters and cooks”.

"Pride of the hills": A train of the Darjeeling Himalayan Railway at Ghoom Station. Source: By Pramanick (CC BY-SA 3.0) via Wikipedia

A “toy train” of the Dar­jeel­ing Him­alay­an Rail­way at Ghoom Sta­tion. Source: Praman­ick (CC BY-SA 3.0) via Wikipedia

Dar­jeel­ing was once a high-end tour­ist des­tin­a­tion and it could attract high-spend­ing inter­na­tion­al and domest­ic tour­ists again, Mazum­dar believes. “In stark con­trast, the budget tour­ists who flock to D&D from the rest of Bengal and oth­er parts of the coun­try, as well as the back­pack­ers from abroad, stay in budget hotels run by Bengal­is, spend little on food and sight-see­ing and noth­ing much on shop­ping. So the loc­als don’t bene­fit from the budget tourists.”

Mazum­dar writes of a Bengali con­spir­acy to con­vert D&D into a budget des­tin­a­tion. He quotes Bin­ita Rai, a Dar­jeel­ing hoteli­er: “It was done to sat­is­fy the travel urges of the lower middle class and middle class Bengal­is who were the sup­port­ers of the Left (which ruled the state for 34 years) and now the Tri­n­amool. Mak­ing Dar­jeel­ing a low-end travel des­tin­a­tion was a delib­er­ate ploy to appease the over­whelm­ing major­ity of Bengal­is of Bengal who are low-budget tourists.

“Many amen­it­ies aimed at the high-end tour­ists could have been developed, like golf courses, adven­ture sports and tea tour­ism. But while Darjeeling’s infra­struc­ture was allowed to rot away, hotels cater­ing to the back­pack­ers and low-end tour­ists were encour­aged to come up.”

Leopard at Dooars, Kahyerbari Tiger Reserve Center. By Shamitaksha (Own work) [CC BY-SA 4.0 (http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0)], via Wikimedia Commons

Leo­pard at Dooars, Kahy­erbari Tiger Reserve Cen­ter. By Sham­itak­sha (Own work) [CC BY-SA 4.0 (http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0)], via Wiki­me­dia Commons

To wrap up his invest­ig­a­tion into tour­ism, Mazum­dar sought out Sikkim Cent­ral University’s found­ing vice-chan­cel­lor Mahendra P Lama who reck­ons that, under the aus­pices of Gorkha­land, Dar­jeel­ing can again became a high-end tour­ist des­tin­a­tion. Gorkha­land tour­ism could gen­er­ate at least Rs 500 crore (Rs 5 bil­liion ~ USD77.59 mil­lion) a year in rev­en­ue, accord­ing to Lama. This is more than ten times the Rs 40 crore (Rs 400 mil­lion ~ USD6.2 mil­lion) in annu­al rev­en­ue that D&D tour­ism cur­rently gen­er­ates for West Bengal, very little of which goes back to D&D people.

“With Gorkha­land, the earn­ings from this sec­tor will not only increase, it is the people of the Dar­jeel­ing Hills and the Dooars who will bene­fit,” Lama said.

Source: This post is based on a sum­mary of the tour­ism con­tent in Jaideep Mazumdar’s full art­icle. Please vis­it Swa­ra­jya to read the full art­icle in which Mazum­dar invest­ig­ates the oth­er Ts of D&D — tea, tim­ber, and trade — as well as the region’s nat­ur­al assets (flora & fauna) and hydro­elec­tric poten­tial. Fea­tured image: Pro-Gorkha­land inde­pend­ence posters, Dar­jeel­ing, West Bengal, India. By Adam Jones via Flickr.

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